HAUSE SEWER NETWORKsewers@hause.ca403-679-3100
SewerExperts.ca
Fixes

What are my sewer repair options?

Sewer repair options in plain answers: clearing, spot repair, sectional liner, full lining, pipe bursting and open-cut replacement, matched to the defect.

Conceptual illustration of spot repair lining and pipe replacement compared as physical specimens
Illustrated field guideSpot repair lining and pipe replacement compared as physical specimensRepair a section · renew the wall · replace the route
Short answer

Your options run from cheapest to most thorough: clear and maintain the line, fix one spot (by digging or with a sectional liner), line the whole length from inside (CIPP), burst the old pipe and pull a new one through, or dig a trench and replace the line. The right one depends on what the camera shows, how much of the line it affects, the grade, and what sits on top.

Key takeaways
  • Match the fix to the defect, not the other way round.
  • A liner or a burst follows the old line, so neither can remove a sag; that needs digging at that spot.
  • One defect in sound pipe suits a spot repair; defects along the run suit full-length renewal.
  • Driveways, trees and landscaping on top push the choice toward trenchless methods.
A shored trench across a front yard exposing an old clay sewer pipe
IllustrationOpen-cut repair: a shored trench exposing the old clay lateral.
Cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) liningA resin-saturated liner is inverted into the old pipe from an access point, pressed against the wall and cured in place, forming a new pipe inside the old one. Branch connections are then reopened with a robotic cutter. ACCESS BRANCH / TAP ① LINER INVERTS WITH AIR OR WATER PRESSURE CRACKS · OPEN JOINTS · ROOT ENTRY BEFORE AFTER — NEW PIPE INSIDE OLD ② TAP REINSTATED BY CUTTER LONG SECTION + CROSS-SECTIONS · NOT TO SCALE
Fig. 1Cured-in-place lining builds a new pipe inside the old one, then reopens the connections.

01 /Can my sewer line be repaired instead of replaced?

Often, yes. If the camera shows one or two defects in otherwise sound pipe, a spot repair or a short liner renews only those places and leaves the rest alone. Full replacement or full-length lining makes sense when defects repeat along the line, the pipe material is failing everywhere, or earlier repairs keep being followed by new failures somewhere else.

Sewer repair options at a glance
OptionWhat it fixesWhat it cannot fix
Clearing and maintenance (cable or jetting)Blockages, grease, light rootsAny structural defect
Spot repair by diggingOne short damaged section, including a local sag or collapseProblems elsewhere on the line
Sectional (point) linerOne crack, fracture or leaking joint in pipe still roundA sag, a collapse, a large offset
Full-length lining (CIPP)Cracks, root-prone joints and leaks along the runA sag; pipe too deformed to line
Pipe burstingBroken or undersized pipe along a fairly straight run; can upsizeA sag; sharp bends; many connections
Open-cut replacementAnything, including grade and routeNothing structurally, but restoration is the biggest

Before deciding, you need a recorded camera run with distances. Getting a second opinion explains how to check what it shows.

02 /When is cleaning enough?

When the pipe is structurally sound and the problem is what is inside it: grease, wipes, scale or a few roots at one joint. Cleaning with a cable or a jetter restores flow, and changes in what goes down the drain keep it clear. If roots return every year from the same joints, or the camera shows the pipe itself is failing, cleaning has become a recurring cost rather than a fix.

Jetting removes grease coatings and root fibres more thoroughly than a cable, which only cuts a path. Sister sites SewerJetting.ca and SewerRoots.ca cover those methods in depth.

03 /What is the difference between a spot repair and a sectional liner?

Both fix one place. A spot repair digs down to the defect, cuts out the damaged section and couples in new pipe; it can also correct a local sag, because the new piece is laid on grade. A sectional liner is a short resin-soaked sleeve pressed against the inside of the pipe at the defect and cured there, installed from a cleanout without digging, as long as the pipe is still round and on grade.

Spot repair (dig)
Sectional liner
Access
Excavation at the defect
From a cleanout; no dig
Fixes a local sag?
Yes, relaid on grade
No
Fixes a collapse?
Yes
No
Surface disruption
One hole, then restoration
Minimal
Best under
Open lawn, shallow line
Driveway, deck or trees, when the pipe is round

Repair-scale trenchless work is the focus of sister site TrenchlessSewerRepair.ca.

04 /How do lining and pipe bursting differ?

Lining builds a new pipe inside the old one; bursting destroys the old one and pulls a new pipe into its place. A cured-in-place liner is inverted or pulled into the cleaned host pipe and hardened, leaving a jointless pipe slightly smaller than the original. Bursting drags a cone through the old pipe, breaking it outward, while new pipe follows; it can install a pipe the same size or larger.

Cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) liningA resin-saturated liner is inverted into the old pipe from an access point, pressed against the wall and cured in place, forming a new pipe inside the old one. Branch connections are then reopened with a robotic cutter. ACCESS BRANCH / TAP ① LINER INVERTS WITH AIR OR WATER PRESSURE CRACKS · OPEN JOINTS · ROOT ENTRY BEFORE AFTER — NEW PIPE INSIDE OLD ② TAP REINSTATED BY CUTTER LONG SECTION + CROSS-SECTIONS · NOT TO SCALE
Fig. 2CIPP lining: a resin-saturated liner is put into the host pipe, cured in place, and branch connections are reopened from inside.

Lining needs a host pipe that still holds its shape and usually needs no pits when there is a usable cleanout. Bursting suits pipe too broken to line and lines that need more capacity, but it needs launch and receiving pits and keeps the old route. Neither changes the grade. The engineering of liners is covered at SewerRelining.ca, bursting at PipeBursting.ca, and every trenchless method side by side at TrenchlessSewer.ca.

Trenchless pipe burstingA cone-shaped bursting head is pulled through the old pipe from a launch pit to a receiving pit, fracturing the old pipe outward into the soil while new high-density polyethylene pipe is drawn in behind it. LAUNCH PIT RECEIVING PIT WINCH PULL ① HEAD FRACTURES OLD PIPE OUTWARD ② NEW HDPE PIPE PULLED IN BEHIND OLD PIPE AHEAD OF THE HEAD SIDE SECTION · SAME OR LARGER DIAMETER · NOT TO SCALE
Fig. 3Pipe bursting: a head breaks the old pipe outward from a launch pit while new pipe is pulled in behind it toward the receiving pit.
Sewer camera view of a long crack along the top of a clay pipe
IllustrationA longitudinal crack along the crown of a clay pipe, with soil showing through the fracture.

05 /When is digging the whole line the right answer?

When the grade is wrong along much of the line, when the route has to change, when the pipe has collapsed in several places, or when the line is shallow under open lawn so digging is cheap to restore. Open-cut replacement lays new pipe on new bedding at the correct slope, which no trenchless method can do, and lets the installer see and fix everything.

The trade-offs are restoration and safety. A trench across a driveway, patio or mature trees costs more to put back than the pipe work, and trenches deeper than 1.5 m in Alberta need protection for workers under the provincial OHS Code. Replacement decisions are covered in depth by sister site SewerReplacement.ca.

06 /Can I combine repair methods on one line?

Yes, and it is often the cheapest honest answer. A line rarely fails evenly. A common pattern is a sag near the house, root-prone clay joints across the yard and a sound section near the street. Digging and relaying the sag, then lining the joints from the cleanout, fixes each problem with the method that suits it instead of paying to dig the whole yard or lining over a sag that will keep collecting solids.

  • Dig the collapse, line the rest: a collapse must be dug; the round pipe either side can be lined from that pit.
  • Spot repair near the house, monitor the rest: when the only defect is one offset and the rest looks sound on camera.
  • Line the private side, leave the city side: when the municipality owns and maintains the part past the property line; confirm first.
  • Burst the broken section, keep the new plastic: when an earlier repair already replaced part of the run.

A combined plan needs a clear scope: which length gets which treatment, where each method ends, and how the transitions are sealed. Ask for it on a sketch with distances that match the camera video.

07 /What questions should I ask before choosing a method?

Ask each contractor to explain the method against your video: which defects it fixes, which it leaves, what happens to the grade, how many pits or how much trench, what surface comes back, how branch connections are handled, and what the warranty covers. A contractor who offers only one method for every problem deserves a second opinion from one who offers several.

Then compare the lifetime picture, not just the price: a cheaper spot repair on a line with defects every few metres may be the first of several. Getting a second opinion explains how to test the reasoning, and how to vet a sewer contractor covers the paperwork.

08 /What does each sewer repair option cost?

As 2026 planning estimates in Canadian dollars for a typical house lateral: clearing $200 to $450 per visit, hydro jetting $450 to $1,100, a sectional liner $2,500 to $6,500 for the first defect, an excavated spot repair $3,500 to $16,000, full-length CIPP lining of a 15 to 25 m lateral $9,000 to $28,000, pipe bursting $10,000 to $30,000, and open-cut replacement $12,000 to $35,000 or more.

Residential sewer options: typical quoted ranges, CAD planning estimate (2026)
OptionTypical quoted range
Main-line clearing (cable)$200–$450 per visit
Hydro jetting, residential main$450–$1,100 per visit
Sectional (point) liner$2,500–$6,500 first section; $1,500–$3,500 each extra on the same visit
Excavated spot repair$3,500–$16,000
Full-length CIPP lining (15–25 m)$9,000–$28,000
Pipe bursting (15–25 m)$10,000–$30,000
Open-cut replacement (15–25 m)$12,000–$35,000+

The lowest-cost option is the one that fixes your defect the first time. The cost answers page breaks each range down, and the vetting checklist helps you check the contractor before you sign. To ask which option your video points to, send it to the desk.

FAQQuestions people ask

Can a sewer line be repaired without digging?

Often. Sectional liners, full-length lining and pipe bursting all avoid a continuous trench. They need a round, reasonably straight pipe on grade, and bursting needs pits at each end.

Can lining fix a sagging sewer pipe?

No. A liner takes the shape of the pipe it is in, so a sag stays a sag. The low section has to be dug up and relaid on grade.

How long does a sewer lining last?

Manufacturers and installers commonly state long design lives for CIPP, but actual life depends on installation quality and conditions. Ask for the warranty in writing.

Is it cheaper to repair or replace a sewer line?

Repairing one defect is cheaper when the rest of the pipe is sound. When defects repeat along the run, full-length renewal usually costs less than a series of spot repairs.

NETWORKGo deeper across the HAUSE Sewer network

Request quotes

Describe the problem once. Get a straight answer.

Send the symptoms and anything you already know — age of the house, what a camera found, what you have been quoted. The HAUSE Sewer desk replies with next steps and, where available, a local contractor for the job.

Sewage backing up right now? Stop using water, keep people away from the water, and do not touch electrical equipment near it.

Tell us about the job

Free request. We read every one and reply by email or phone.

HAUSE Sewer is an independent network, not a contractor. See our privacy notice.

The HAUSE Sewer network

One sewer line, every angle.